Sunday, February 21, 2010

Week 1 Lesson 3: The Emperor of Chefs: Escoffier

Georges-Auguste Escoffier makes me think of watching all those Titanic documentaries on the History Channel. He wasn't on the Titanic, but that was the time and kind of people he was working with. Visions are in my head of ladies wearing big hats and umbrellas just for the sun (okay, Kate Winslet in the movie Titanic) and men in suits wearing pocket watches, sporting fancy mustaches, smoking cigars and drinking the finest single malt scotch they could afford (the men Leonardo Di Caprio's folksy character despised).  God, the Celine Dion's song "My Heart Will Go On" is running through my head now. But you get where I'm going with this.

I kinda think those people hopped on the Titanic to go stay at the Ritz-Carlton in London to meet Escoffier, or just sample his dishes. Was the Titanic going to London? Crap, I can't remember. But we're talking about Escoffier, so we'll figure that out later.

The man knocked everyone's socks off with his cooking and style and mastering the art of french haute cuisine. But what he is noted for doing,
is being a sort of editor to Careme's works. Escoffier simplified Careme's techniques, removing things like prolific garnishes and heavy sauces. Escoffier lightened the sauces, removed the excessive garnish, reduced the number of dishes on a menu and also lightened the load in the kitchen by creating a brigade system. Careme's stations were really meant for older post-medieval type kitchens and Escoffier was able to modernize the stations idea to suit modern restaurant and hotel kitchens. Escoffier worked mostly in hotels and Careme worked mostly in the homes of nobles. So, with the available cooking equipment and the two different environments of service, it stands to reason that Escoffier had to make some changes.

Escoffier started working with his uncle in Nice (pron: Neese) France at Le Restaurant Francais and then moved up to the fashionable Le Petit Moulin Rouge in Paris. Which, of course, makes me think of one of my all time favorite movie musicals Moulin Rouge with Nicole Kidman and Ewan McGregor and one of my favorite love songs that they sing together, Come What May. But again, I wonder if we're talking the same Moulin Rouge here. Maybe?

Later on, Escoffier worked as an army chef, studied canning techniques (very new technique for food at the time), got married and opened his own place called Le Faisan d'Or (The Golden Pheasant). Then he went and managed The Grand Hotel in Monte Carlo and while managing another place on the French Riviera, he met Cesar Ritz. He and Ritz and another guy partnered up to establish The Savoy Hotel in London. The Savoy was the place that really famed Escoffier and his partners. All the rich and famous people went out to eat at The Savoy. And here is something interesting, this is the time when women were just starting to dine in public! Think about that, that's a little over 100 years ago. That's crazy progress we've made girls.

Ritz and another guy and Escoffier got in big trouble for stealing liquor and taking too many gifts. Oooo, bad boys! I bet they are ghosts, looking down right now and saying "Man, am I glad this didn't happen now with all the cameras and video they have now!" Can you imagine the scandal? They would be in line to apologize right after Tiger Woods. Headline: "World's most famous chef caught accepting gifts of unethical nature!" (Gasp!) I wonder what the gifts were. Hmm, another thing I'm curious about now. I don't think Escoffier stole liquor though, I think only his friends did, but he was guilty by association. Bad boy!

So, after they got thrown out of The Savoy, Escoffier and Ritz were still riding the high wave of popularity. Their clientele followed them to their already established Ritz Hotel Development Company where they had a Ritz in Paris and a Carlton in London. Smart thinking boys! Hey, now you are learning about the origins of the Ritz-Carlton and Savoy and all those fancy hotel names you've heard splashed about on the tongues of Food Network Chefs. If we ever find ourselves at one of these hotels, it will have new meaning now, won't it? Man, history is so cool (and I am such a huge dork for saying that!).

One final, but very important note about Escoffier is that he went on this really important ocean-liner, the SS Imperator to prepare a grand luncheon and dinner. And apparently, really impressed the hell out of the German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II, so much so that he said to Escoffier, "I am the Emperor of Germany, but you are the Emperor of Chefs." A big compliment and a huge deal.

Another big deal is that Escoffier wrote the book Le Guide Culinaire which is still studied by all the good chefs. I looked online, and there is a translated version of this book available and I am so thinking of getting it. And french my chef, there is a copy for $33,000 dollars! Whew! I am NOT getting that copy! This one looks more reasonable, though I may look for a used cheaper copy:Escoffier: Le Guide Culinaire
He also wrote Le Livre des menus and Ma Cuisine, Ma Cuisine which are also very popular. I don't know where I'm going to find time for all this reading but I'm truly fascinated now. So much to learn Nellie Melba!

Thus, between Careme and his analysis and recording of 500 plus years of medieval cooking techniques and Escoffier's invention of Cuisine Classique or Classic/Classical Cuisine, a serious study culinary applied science was born.

By the way, I think these guys meant for me to buy their books and learn in my own damn kitchen! Don't you?

Happy Studying!

With Love,
Michelle 

P.S. Escoffier invented Peach Melba after an Australian singer named Nellie Melba. We so have to make it now!

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